Recent Development at Harpur Hill
by Bob Bennett
Harpur Hill is probably Derbyshire’s best bolted quarry and over the last two years , Gary Gibson has added a good crop of new climbs mainly in the 5+ to 6B range.
The developments have taken place on the main upper tier, Nidges wall which lies just to the left of Papacy Buttress ( the one with Coral Seas on), College Buttress which is in the direction of the “blue lagoon” and very recently he has bolted up Long Wall which directly overlooks the blue pool.
In the centre of the upper tier on Prophecy Buttress there are two excellent long crack lines, Supernatural on the right which goes at a steady 6A.
Bob Boardman at the start of the fine crackline of Supernatural 6A
and across left , The Omen at the amenable end of the 6B grade which gives technical and interesting climbing with an absorbing crux.
John Pem going through the crux of The Omen 6B
Across left on the arête taken by Screaming Wheels is Swains World another 6B on immaculate rock. After an easy start the climb steepens up on good holds to an exciting finish. Walking up the road that passes under the lower tier, leads to the area above the blue pool or “Harpur Hill Lido”.
Bob Bennett on the well positioned crux of Swains World-6B
On the left (looking towards the pool ) is College Buttress with a crop of climbs around the 6B grade which are varied and interesting . Easiest of these is an interesting 6A –“White Wind” at the right hand end, with “Perfect Day (6B) to the left. This involves a clean slabby start to an overlap with some tricky layaway moves to reach the lower off-Very good quality. Further left just before the corner is “Profitless” again at 6B takes a clean delicate slab with a strenuous pull through the roof to good finishing holds. The last development is the long wall directly above the pool. This wall faces NE and is better climbed on in the morning. It is prone to catch any wind .Surprisingly named the Long Wall, there are currently 14 new bolted lines on here , the slabby nature of this face being unusual for a quarry setting. This is a very recent development and as such, should be treated with care for the odd loose hold although the rock is generally good. Some of the better examples on this wall are as follows. Third from the left end a line takes a clean solid wall with a tricky finish (6A+/6B), left of this is a worthwhile 5+ with a tricky move at the top.( Climb the crack on the right of the lower off and reach left to finish). Moving right passing another worthwhile crack-line and then a quality route up twin cracks right of the adit cave, there is a prominent arête/corner. To the right of this is a good 6A with hidden holds and a finish to a lower off above the overlapping headwall . Better still next right is a 6A+ starting from a prominent block trending left to a superb finish on the head wall. The blank looking face right again gives Longevity at 6A ,more quality climbing on hidden holds and good rock after a tricky start.
Graham on Longevity 6A one of the many quality climbs on Long Wall
